Mar 192017

How to Do It

Tools Needed:

  • Pliers
  • Flathead Screwdriver
  • 5mm hex key

Time spent: 1 hour

Cost: $34.00 at including tax with Black Friday 20% off and free shipping.

Here is the Process


Use the information here at your own risk. We take no responsibility and will not be held accountable for any safety issues, or any problems whatsoever. If you are not mechanically talented or never open a hood before, please do not try this on your own. Seek help. This instruction deviates from the installation instruction provided by Mountune.

  1. Unplug the vacuum line at the intake manifold just above the throttle body by compressing the grooved portions of the plug while pulling back.
  2. Unplug the emission line with the green locking tap at the intake tube by using a flat head screwdriver. Pry at the center of the green tap to lift the locking clip, and pull the line away from intake tube
  3. Move these two lines away from the symposer
  4. Locate the sound symposer box on the right side of the throttle body and pull off the slip fit symposer hose
  5. Pull the symposer box off of the rubber grommet mount
  6. Due to limited access to the hose clamp at the symposer unit, and the symposer has the tendency to fuse to the hose, it is easier to remove the entire hose from the inlet pipe
  7. Use a suitable plier, squeeze the lower clamp enough to lock let it lock itself in open position
  8. Use pull and twist motion near the bottom of the hose to remove it from the pipe. Becare of the clamp snap back, and pinch the finger; don’t ask how we know. Be patient, access is tight, and can be hard to remove.
  9. Once the hose and symposer is out of the vehicle as one unit. Install the lower hose on a pipe, like the handle of a floor jack
  10. Now you are ready to tackle the upper clamp, by squeeze the clamp open and leave it at locked open position
  11. Use a small flat head screwdriver to gently pry on the hose and symposer connection to aid loosening up the bond
  12. Pull and twist on the symposer. With patience and persistency it will eventually come out
  13. If the 90 degree AN4 fittings are used on the symposer delete pay attention to the position of the ports on the symposer to ensure they are facing the right direction without interfering other engine components after installation
  14. Apply a very thin coat of oil on the lip of the symposer delete, gently insert onto the hose, and close the clamp
  15. Install the preferred fittings (either the plugs, or the 90 degrees) onto the symposer delete with Telfon tape. Plugs require 4.5 mm hex key.
  16. Now the hose with the symposer delete is ready to be reinstalled, and make sure the lower clamp is still in the locked open position
  17. Apply a thin coat of oil to the lip of the lower hose, align the hose, and gently insert it back on the inlet pipe; gentle enough that the clamp won’t snap itself close
  18. Use a flat head push on the locking mechanism of the clamp to let it snap back closed
  19. Hose leading from symposer unit to firewall can then be removed
  20. Locate the 90 degree connection, behind the battery by the ECU
  21. The hose can be disconnect similar to the connection at the symposer unit
  22. Remove the hose clip under the intake tube. The hose will come free
  23. Reinstall the vacuum lines. Done


The symposer delete resulted in a quitter cabin at around 3,000 to 3,500 rpm under medium throttle load. Now the noise that we can hear are the from the intake and exhaust with more defined turbo whoosh.  The cabin now feels more natural and mature. Highly recommend the symposer delete if you have upgraded intake and exhaust system.

Passenger Compartment Engine Note Comparisons

Lamzgarage Health Tip

We are glad the sound symposer can be disabled, and it is fully reversible when you want to honor the millions of dollars spent in research and development. Although access the hose clamps caused a few scraped knuckles but it is better than those undefeatable stereo based setup. Our headache goes away with the symposer delete.  LZG

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